As they say, a structure is only as good as its foundation. The same
goes for embroidery. Underlay lays the foundation in machine embroidery
and is one of the most overlooked elements as well. Most new digitizers
tend to compensate for a lack of underlay by increasing the density of
the stitches. While this may seem fine in theory, in practice it only
leads to the "bullet proof" embroidery patch. This is embroidery so
thick that it could stop a bullet in its tracks. Not only does this kill
the entire aesthetic value of the design, but also makes it extremely
rigid and look like an add-on patch.
Underlay not only helps lay a firm foundation for high-quality results that appear as a seamless part of the garment, but also gives them a natural pop. The right use will make letters stand out on grainy or nap-heavy materials and let designs hold their own on stretchy fabrics. Here's looking into the basic types of underlay available and their functions -
Underlay not only helps lay a firm foundation for high-quality results that appear as a seamless part of the garment, but also gives them a natural pop. The right use will make letters stand out on grainy or nap-heavy materials and let designs hold their own on stretchy fabrics. Here's looking into the basic types of underlay available and their functions -
- Contour Underlay: The contour underlay traces the outline of any column, endowing it with a subtle pop. If you choose to use a satin stitch minus any underlay, you'll either end up with stitches that sink in, lay flat on the surface or let the nap of the fabric stick out. In order to avoid such situations, we recommend using contour in combination with satin stitches, at all times. For best results on corners, make sure to put a contour of .02 inches on the inset. Also, we advise against using a contour by itself under fills.
- Zigzag Underlay: This style of underlay is best to give your design additional loft, even better than the contour or perpendicular. For best results, use the zigzag in combination with a center run underlay, so that the center run can secure the fabric, while zigzag creates the loft. One of the most underused underlays in embroidery digitizing, a zigzag can truly set your design a class apart if used right. It especially brings about great results under satin stitches.
- Perpendicular Underlay: As the name suggests, this style of underlay places vertical lines down the center of the column, which are slightly off center. One of the biggest advantages of using a perpendicular is that it pushes the column apart, as it stitches in the opposite direction of the satin. If you want to raise the text a bit on fabrics with nap, we recommend using it in addition to the zigzag.
- Parallel Underlay: Your best friend when embroidery digitizing text, parallel underlay can be used in combination with any column or steil stitch. Less dense than the zigzag stitch, it works best to give those columns a solid foundation. We recommend using parallel underlay on stretchy garments such as t-shirts, golf shirts, sweats and a whole range of knitted fabrics.
- Lattice Underlay: This style creates a crisscross of stitches and can be described as a light density fill. The lattice runs perpendicular to the top stitch and works great to attach the fabric to its backing. Using a lattice reduces the push and pull factor characteristic to fill areas, while lifting the top stitches and helps decrease the density of the fill, avoiding that horrible bulletproof effect. For medium to large fill areas, we recommend using a contour then lattice for outstanding results.
- Center Run: A relatively new option in embroider digitizing, a center run places a stitch in the middle of the column and is perfect for use in small letters, without unnecessarily bulking them up.
