The highest concentration of one of the most venomous snakes in the
world is located about 90 miles off the coast of Santos, Brazil, on a
small, craggy chunk of otherwise uninhabitable land. It's known as Ilha
da Queimada Grande, or Snake Island, and it's the only place you will
find 2,000 or so of the wholly unique golden lancehead viper, or
Bothrops insularis.
When you step ashore, with a keen eye you
spot one of these snakes roughly every 10 to 15 minutes after clearing
the base of the island, and as many as one every six square yards in
other parts of the island. This means, as you are walking through the
waist-high brush, even with some good boots on, it's like walking
through a minefield that moves and, instead of blowing you into chunks,
slowly paralyzes you and liquefies your insides, as the golden lancehead
does to the migrating birds it feeds on in the treetops.
Well,
"liquefying your insides" may be a stretch, but no one knows for sure
because no one bitten has lived long enough even to be admitted to a
hospital, or at least none of the researchers who accompanied VICE on
their journey to Snake Island owned up to that fact. Nor did the
Brazilian Navy, who allowed VICE exclusive access to document their
annual maintenance inspection of Snake Island's lighthouse—which has
been automated ever since the 1920s, after the old lighthouse keeper ran
out of food and disappeared while picking wild bananas in a small grove
near the shore. According to legend, he and the members of his rescue
party died one by one, all alone and in search of one another after each
had been missing for some time.
The golden lancehead is so
unique and its venom so potent that specimens procured by
snake-smuggling "biopirates" can fetch up to $30,000 apiece on the black
market (with prices going much higher depending on the location of the
rich weirdo snake collector or, some have speculated, the black-market
biopharmaceutical chemists attempting to beat Brazil on a patent).
Is
that the craziest fucking description of a documentary you've ever
heard? The answer is yes. So of course VICE's editor-in-chief, Rocco
Castoro, and senior producer, Jackson Fager, had to go there and nose
around for themselves. On their return they said things like:
"It was like a David Lynch movie through the prism of Satan's asshole. The anti-Galápagos. Darwin in reverse."
"[It's]
cut off from the mainland and perhaps the land of a long-buried pirate
treasure, according to the stories from local fishermen. But they also
told us there were aliens on the island, so pretty much anything goes.
It's scorched earth. It's where I would send my worst enemies to live,
and I look forward to setting up a business with the Brazilian
government to do just that. After the World Cup, of course."
"What
I can tell you is that there are stone fucking steps hand-carved into
the face of one of the prominent cliffs, all the way up. But you can't
dock anywhere near there. There's also the possibility that [the venom]
could be used for an anti-cancer drug, or perhaps anti-aging. Maybe it
could save mankind. Whatever. They wouldn't have saved my ass."
"There
are blue locusts and so many of these weird, prehistoric-looking
cockroaches on the ground at night that it crunches when you walk. Place
is fucked. No one is allowed there for a reason. Don't ever go."
"All that said, great shoot. Great diving, too."