1.If you have access to a diamond tester, you can test for diamonds vs.
fakes. (Beware, moissanite can fool the electronic diamond testers.)
2.The
transparency test. Turn your diamond upside down and place it over
printed text. If you can clearly read through the stone, it's not a
diamond.
3.The fog test. Put your diamond in front of your mouth and
fog it like you would fog a mirror. If it stays fogged for 2-4 seconds,
it's a fake. A real diamond will disperse the heat instantly so by the
time you look at it, it has already cleared up.
4.Test for weight.
The most popular fake is a cubic zirconia. C.Z.'s will weigh
approximately 55% more than diamonds for the same shape and size. Use a
carat or gram scale to see if the impostor tips the scales too much.
5.The
U.V. test. Many diamonds will show fluorescence of blue if put under an
ultra violet light or black light. 99% of all fakes don't do this; so, a
positive identification of medium to strong blue would indicate a
diamond. Diamonds with blue fluorescence can be as much as 20% less
valuable; however, lack of blue fluorescence doesn't mean it's a fake;
it could be a better quality diamond.
6.The under the loop test.
With a magnifying lens, there are some things you can look for on the
stone that might give away its identity:
1.Look at your diamond from
the top and see how the facets (the cuts on top of the diamond) are
joined. They should be sharp but not rolled.
2.Is the girdle faceted or frosty (yes, then it's a diamond) or waxy and slick (yes, then it's a fake.)
3.Under
magnification, look into your diamond for flaws (carbon, pinpoints,
small cracks.) It's very hard to put inclusions into a fake.
4.Look
at the stamps inside the setting. A stamp of "14K, 18K, 750, 900, 950,
PT, Plat" indicates the setting is real gold or platinum. This gives a
better chance that the stone in it is real as well. Look for any "C.Z."
stamps. This will tell you the center stone is not a diamond.
